For the last 10 days of our trip in India, before returning to Delhi, Jeff and I did a wonderful giant loop of a journey by train. Our selected stops along the way: Amritsar with its Golden Temple, close to the Pakistan border, Jodhpur in the heart of the deserts of Rajhastan, and Varanasi, one of the most sacred cities in India located on the shores of the Ganges river.
Anyone who has travelled by train in India will agree that it is definitely one of those situations where the destination really is only one part of the whole experience, the journey itself being such an event to remember. My brother Diarmuid has been known to say that sleeper class (the lowest of classes on overnight trains) is the only way one should travel in India if they want to really experience India. I am now in a position to wholeheartedly agree with him. In these cheap, low class carriages it seems that drama after drama unfold before your eyes. Although at times it appears calm, the next stop it suddenly seems as if the entire population of an Indian town has entered the train, mostly in your booth. Little kids with endlessly deep brown eyes running amok and clambering from bed to bed. Friends sitting 3 high on laps when no other seating is available. Loud chatter, shouting, people playing music on mobile phones (they are everywhere here), and the endless stream of merchants selling chai (tea) or snacks who have to push their way through the aisles as they shout their own rhythmic team tune “Chai, Chai, Chaaaiiiiii” ! Mayhem Indian-style. And all the smells and dirt of India rushing in through the open windows and doors. A veritable assault on the senses.
Other than the obvious joy of watching the beautiful countryside roll by, what I enjoyed most were our interactions with people sitting near us. The friendly Sikh couple sitting opposite who insisted on sharing all their food with us. Not a word of English between them, and so conversation consisted of smiles, nods and hand gestures for the duration of the journey. Then there were the multiple people who came to sit with us to practice/show off their English, and those that switched seats to sit by us even though they spoke no English. And the boy who sat beside Jeff and chatted enthusiastically with him, complimenting him repeatedly on his “beautiful hair”. These experiences were only slightly tainted by the unfortunate theft of Jeff’s runners while we slept on one of the night trains. What they’ll do with technical climber’s approach shoes on the streets of India we’ll never know…
The highlights of Jodhpur for me were the magnificence of the fort, and the wonderful gentle giant of an elephant we met wandering through the market streets. This is a city which truly brings one back in time, to the medieval ages with castles and royal courts, except with warriors on elephant back instead of horseback. Further East on our train journey, Varanasi is a city built on the shores of the Ganges and is in keeping with that whole medieval theme. A truly bizarre, and mystical place. This is considered the most sacred place for Indian hindus to be brought after death, for public cremation in an open fire by the river. The ashes are then sprinkled in the river, which for us westerners is a little disconcerting considering that that same water is used for bathing, washing clothes, and also drinking. Even the open sewers draining into the river don’t put the locals and pilgrims off.
And now after 6 and a half weeks, the India episode of our travels is over. A truly wonderful experience. One filled with many new things for Jeff and I, with one adventure after another. India has also dished out many challenges for us, mental and physical. My guts are happy for a change. It has sparked numerous debates about tolerance, cultural differences and spirituality. It has driven us mental at times, and at other times been our magical wonderland. It would take an entire novel of words to try and describe the ups and downs of our relationship with India, and even then we’d probably miss the point.
We have now arrived in Thailand, a holidays from our holidays…
More photos: Train Journey, Jodhpur, and Varanasi
Tags: amritsar, indian trains, jodhpur, sleeper class, stolen runners, train journey, varanasi
Gina! I just wanted to say that I love all your new clothes! (Ok, maybe you brought them, and they are not new) but some of the skirts, pants and scarves you are wearing are just lovely! ….and yes, I am definitely commenting on your clothes amidst all the beauty of the surroundings.
I agree with Claire about the glad rags but am also enthralled by what you are both doing, the wonderful stories of the people, the countryside and cities. I have passed your beansontour to several people who now enjoy it. You will certainly stay happily together for life if you survive this trip. Big XX from Ken and myself.