The hot springs of Vashisht in the foot hills of the Himalayas have been a central part of the local peoples’ lives for thousands of years. The spring has been piped into 3 public baths, which are lined with smooth slate like stone. Jets of hot water shoot out of multiple pipes in the centre of the mountain village and are used by the locals for washing of all sorts: clothes, pots, people. Every morning and evening the centre of the village surrounding the baths becomes a hub of excitement and activity, with people of all ages coming together to bath in the steaming hot water.
Two of the baths are located within the walls of the ancient stone temple called Vashisht Mandir, which is dedicated to the sage Vashisht. Men and women bath separately, and behind the stone walls of the women’s baths, all restrictions of the outside world become void. Saris are removed, and bodies exposed. With the comfortable confidence of women who have been bathing in the company of others since they were born. They work in pairs, one woman scrubbing the other’s back. All is done briskly, and matter-of-factly, while discussing the days events. Like us westerners would wash dishes. No self-consciousness or awkwardness. It seems ironic to me that many of us westerners wear clothes that expose the shape and contour of or bodies, with shoulders, backs or legs bare. However, if faced with a communal, co-operative bathing scenario such as is the norm here, many of us would become shy modest creatures instantly. The opposite seems true for Indian women.
I was a little nervous about joining the women in the temple baths, but curiosity won. The strong buzz of community and the relaxed environment within the bath walls immediately put me at ease. Other than a few hellos and smiles from the locals, I was able to blend into the comfortable darkness of the night, and soak in the wonderful warmth of the spring water. There is no roof above the baths, and no city lights to obscure our view of the stars above. Bliss.
A young girl nearby introduced herself as Deeba and offered me her bar of soap to use. She smiled at me curiously, this funny white girl who is so pale. The sound of loud drumming began somewhere nearby, getting closer and closer. I asked for it’s purpose and was told by a lady beside me-
“Temple. God.” Keep it simple.
We have been enjoying (my big brother) Mathew’s company for a little over 3 days now. Such a pleasure to see him in what has become his “natural habitat” of sorts. Traveling in exotic places that is.
A guy of so many talents, with a wonderful way with people. Sitting on the back of his motorbike, as he guides me through the hectic streets of Delhi, I wrap my arms around his waist and instantly become a little girl, content and secure within the protective shield of my big brother.
